North Laine Brighton: A locals guide
A locals guide to the North Laine Brighton one of the most vibrant and diverse areas of the city
History of the North Laine
The first thing to note about the North Laine, is that it isn’t The Lanes, which is an entirely unrelated part of Brighton closer to the shoreline. Nor is it North Laines, plural. In fact, this area of Brighton was named relatively recently, in 1977, with reference not to ‘lanes’ as in streets, but laine as an Anglo-Saxon word meaning ‘loan’ or ‘lease’, which was used in 1700’s Sussex to describe the division of surrounding agricultural land into separate fields, of which Brighton used to have five.
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However, this wasn’t a name that stuck through the years - it was reintroduced by Borough Planning Officer, Ken Fines, in 1976, when he proposed it should be a Conservation Area, in opposition to the council’s neglectful policies, allowing properties to fall into disrepair to justify demolition.
Much of the residential area to the north of Trafalgar Street had already been razed to make way for tower blocks over the preceding decade, and further plans were in place to build roads right through the heart of the soon-to-be North Laine area, prioritising cars as Brighton’s main mode of transport.
The residents of the area were understandably opposed, fearing ‘environmental degradation and blight’, and had already organised themselves into the Central Brighton Community Association, producing a newsletter called the North Road Runner to fight the demolition plans.
It was when Ken Fines, with his philosophy of preservation and advocacy of public transport, attended a meeting of local residents and heard this sentiment echoed back, that his plans began to crystallize. In 1977, Conservation Area status was granted to the newly named North Laine area, with Brighton Council even eventually offering grants for property renovation.
Fast-forward half a century, and the North Laine is a bustling residential and commercial hub - not another motorway - thanks Ken! Known nowadays as Brighton’s ‘bohemian and cultural quarter’, it’s a far cry from its historical origins.
Where is the North Laine?
Generally, we can think of the North Laine as the area bordered by Trafalgar Street, Gloucester Place, North Road, and Queen’s Road - although the actual Conservation Area extends further south, encompassing areas as far as North Street. If you’re arriving by train, simply follow Trafalgar Street as it tunnels downhill under the station. If you’re coming up from the seafront, head to the Palace Pier and walk north past the Pavilion and turn left.
What does the North Laine have to offer?
Well, pretty much everything. It’s reminiscent of London’s iconic Camden Market, but by the sea. With an exciting, holiday atmosphere and some 300+ independent shops, there’s truly something for everyone. That said, there are some particularly unique draws.
Trafalgar Street
There’s an absolute overflow of opportunity for incredible vintage and handmade clothing finds, and you can hit a swathe of shops on the trail from Trafalgar Street down to the bottom of Gardner Street - this is by no means an exhaustive list so have a wander, and keep a keen eye.
Sydney Street
On Sydney Street you’ll find one of two To Be Worn Again locations, Independent Rag, Dirty Harry and Flock Brighton. The bottom of Sydney Street is flanked by the longstanding Ju-Ju (quirky high-street fashion and vintage offerings) and Beyond Retro’s Brighton Location.
Kensington Gardens
From here, take a right up Gloucester Road and turn left onto Kensington Gardens, home to another To Be Worn Again, jacket-specialist Scux Vintage and Snoopers Attic (situated on the first floor of the legendary Snoopers Paradise).
Gardner Street
Heading right again, from the bottom of Kensington Gardens, you’ll find yourself at the top of Gardner Street. Here, you’ll find Starfish Vintage Clothing and Mammoth Vintage.
Marketplaces
The North Laine is home to two iconic permanent indoor markets and a Saturday outdoor market. Across Kensington Gardens, and its neighbour, Upper Gardner Street, you’ll have access to roughly 150 individual stalls offering an endless miscellany of odds and ends from taxidermized otters to antique Tiffany lamps. It’s an absolute treasure-trove.
The North Laine is home to two iconic permanent indoor markets and a Saturday outdoor market. Across Kensington Gardens, and its neighbour, Upper Gardner Street, you’ll have access to roughly 150 individual stalls offering an endless miscellany of odds and ends from taxidermized otters to antique Tiffany lamps. It’s an absolute treasure-trove.
Snoopers Paradise
7-8 Kensington Gardens, BN1 4AL
Initially John Blundell’s Furniture Store, Snoopers Paradise was purchased by John and Frank Thompson in 1991, becoming a trading hub for independent vendors of mostly furniture and house-clearance items. Gradually, this evolved into our eclectic marketplace loved by tourists and locals alike.
Snoopers is home to over 90 independent stalls, with the first floor housing the aforementioned vintage clothing collective Snoopers Attic. It’s a labyrinthine tangle of vintage toys, analog cameras, collectible art and sunglasses styled beyond your wildest imagination, among a thousand other cool finds. Certainly a highlight of the North Laine, demanding repeat visits.
North Laine Bazaar & Upper Gardner Street Market
5-5A Upper Gardner Street, BN1 4AN
On the next street up from Snooper’s Paradise is North Laine Bazaar, boasting a further 50+ stalls of curios and collectibles, vintage furniture and gardenware. Similarly, there’s an attic chocka with vintage clothing.
Upper Gardner Street is also the home of the Saturday Market (operating 07:00 - 17:00, every Saturday). The Upper Gardner Street outdoor marketplace has been in action since the 1890’s, populated by Victorian barrow-boys and traders in an initially unofficial capacity - seeing sellers moved on by police.
However, in the 1920’s this changed after worker’s rights activist and chimney sweep Harry Cowley compelled the authorities to recognise the market officially. It’s managed by Brighton Council now, and merchants of every description can apply via online application.
Boutique Stores
Outside of pre-loved clothes and second-hand finds, there’s a shop specialising in everything and anything else - records, comics, bonsai, board games, socks and cigars, to name only a few. If there’s a special someone with a niche interest, chances are you’ll find the perfect gift somewhere in this shopping sanctum.
Food and Drink
Arrive hungry. You are absolutely spoiled for choice, whether breakfast, lunch, dinner, dessert, eat-in or takeaway, you have an opportunity to sample cuisine from every corner of the globe. As of 2022, Brighton had the highest number of restaurants per capita in the UK.
There’s a few North Laine coffee shops and cafes featured in our Brighton Coffee Shop Guide, if you need a reliable stopping point in the shopping spree.